Ask a dozen different
waterfowlers what a waterfowling kit should consist of and you will
probably get twelve different answers I seriously doubt that you
could get a minimum of three waterfowlers to agree completely on
what a good waterfowling kit should consist of. There will always be
a few items that some will insist on having, while others will just
consider it excess baggage and weight.
There are, however, a
number of items that all of us would probably agree are handy, if
not necessary. I'll give a list of a few items that I take with my
routinely. Most, if not all, of these items fit in a plastic,
waterproof utility box that is roughly 32cm x19cm x 20cm. This box
fits nicely under the front seat of my boat. It is a simple matter
to remove it from the boat and store it in my SUV for the duration
of the season while not hunting, so it is never forgotten at home in
the event that I am using a different boat. In addition to being
stored in a waterproof box, each item is also stored in a self
sealing (resalable) plastic bag.
The first item I have is
a map of the area I intend to hunt. I laminate these myself, and use
a magic marker pen (dry, erasable) to make notes as the season goes
on, such as areas with low water, poor cover, etc. I also carry a
copy of the rules and regulations for that season. These come in
handy for listing shooting times, season dates, etc. If one were to
hunt in an area that was affected by the tides, I would laminate a
tide table and have that information handy as well.
A map is rarely any good
if one doesn't know direction, so a good compass is a must as well.
I prefer the military-style Lensatic type; they fold up into a neat,
small package and take up little space, and can be carefully stored
away until needed. Some might suggest a GPS as well, and I do carry
one, but if I was limited to one or the other I would forgo the GPS
in favor of the compass. Why? Isn't the GPS easier to use? Yes, it
is. I will draw you a map directly back to where you need to be.
However, in order for a GPS to function it depends on a few
variables, such as batteries and having an adequate number of
satellites available at a given moment to fix a point from. Both
have given me problems in the past, and I had to use my "fall back"
plan.....a compass....to help me find my way.
Flashlights (Torches)
are a must for a duck hunter. From finding your way to your blind or
hide to finding the car keys that you just dropped, I seriously
doubt that there is a fowler out there who hasn't cursed the
darkness because of the lack of a usable torch.
But what type of
flashlight is the best? There are several models, from bigguns' that
use camping batteries for a power source to tiny ones that fit on a
key ring. My favorite for hunting is a model that straps to your
head, similar to a miner's light. Over the years I have found them
to be most advantageous; they allow me free use of BOTH of my hands
while piloting the boat, putting up a blind, fixing equipment, or
setting out decoys. The light can be directed to shine where ever I
am looking.....a big plus when trying to read signs when finding a
specific spot on the managed areas. After once dropping a flashlight
while setting out decoys and having some difficulty finding my way
back to shore, I decided it was probably a good idea to carry a
spare on my person at all times. I found that the small "minimag"
flashlights to be just the ticket! It is light weight and fits in
the breast pocket of my hunting jacket. Should my headlight fail,
have another light source readily at hand. In addition to a spare
torch, I also carry a small package of batteries. Currently, these
are AA size. In addition to fitting in both flashlights, they can
also be use to power up a dead GPS, among other things.
It's no fun being cold,
and there are a number of goodies that I have in my kit to help
stave off the elements. First are my handwarmers. I have two of
these and they use a solid fuel stick to provide warmth. One in a
breast pocket and another in a pocket where I keep a hand can help
me stay afield and hunt longer. They last about 4 hours per stick,
and I carry extra sticks as well as two butane lighters to in a
plastic bag. The lighters will consistently light in a wind, even if
it's wet. They can also be used in an emergency situation to start a
fire to stay warm and signal for help. I also have a pair of
neoprene gloves that I use when picking up decoys. They keep my
fingers and hands from getting soaked and turning numb while driving
the boat back to the launch.
One item I have found to
be extremely handy is the Leatherman tool. For those of you who are
unfamiliar with this device, the Leatherman is like a Swiss army
knife on steroids! It folds up compactly to the size of a pack of
cigarettes, yet has a blade, screw driver blades (including regular
and Phillips), awl, pliers, wire cutters, file, etc. I have used
this tool numerous times in the field to fix guns, outboards,
trailer lights, decoys, .........the list goes on and on. While I
use the Leatherman for most of my chores, I also carry along a Swiss
army knife as well; what I can't do with the Leatherman, I can
usually fix with the Swiss army knife. It has a tweezers for
removing splinters, a saw blade, small scissors, etc. I also have
with me a small stash of spare parts that might come in handy:
cotter pins, shear pins, nuts, bolts, screws, a small roll of
electrical tape, and other "knick knacks" that might come in handy.
I also have a larger kit in my vehicle with such things as a roll of
wire, light bulbs for the trailer, wheel bearings & grease, gasoline
hose clamps, etc., for more complicated repairs.
Nothing can ruin a hunt
faster than being unprepared for a medical situation, even a minor
one. Such things as an insect sting, headache, diarrhoea, or a small
cut can ruin a great day afield in short order. While perusing the
tables at a local gun show several years ago, I cam across a fellow
who was selling small, personal first aid containers. They were a
little smaller than a pack of cigarettes, made of canvas with a
zipper, and had a red cross on them. They also had a belt loop so
they could be carried afield. I bought one and surprised myself at
the amount of usable "stuff" that could be carried in its tiny
space. This little satchel will hold a couple of Band-Aids, a small
foil packet of antibiotic ointment, a couple of alcohol swabs, a
couple of 2x2 gauzes, a small roll of tape, a dose of aspirin, a
dose of Pepto-Bismol, a dose of antidiarrheal medication, an
Alka-Seltzer tablet, and some throat lozenges. The medications are
single dose and come in plastic or foil packets and are easily
obtained from most gas stations and convenience stores. With this
little "doctor bag", most minor medical complaints can be dealt with
effectively, saving the hunt.
Just as with the tool
kit, I keep a larger medical bag stowed in my vehicle. It contains
such items as eye shields, iodine, more gauze, larger bandages,
hydrogen peroxide, rubber gloves, various ointments, etc. It is
larger than the one I take with me in the marsh, but is small enough
to fit under the seat. Some medical kits I have seen would have
given the owner the ability to do brain surgery afield; they contain
a host of items that lay people really shouldn't have, such as
scalpels, hemostats, and suture material! Remember: it's called
"first aid" for a reason! It is initial treatment used to stabilize
a wound or condition until further and more extensive medical care
can be given. One final note: first aid kits are virtually useless
unless you know how to apply them. The time to learn first aid is
not during the hunt, but before. Reading up on it now can save time
and anxious moments later. Even if you do know first aid, it is a
good idea to refresh you memory from time to time.
One last item that I
keep in my vehicle throughout the duck hunting season is my "dry
bag". This is a small duffle that consists of dry clothing should I
happen to take a tumble into the drink somewhere along the line. At
it's best, a cold water dunking can make you miserable; at it's
worst, it can cause hypothermia and kill you. My "dry bag" is
nothing more than one of my daughter's old school backpacks that she
doesn't use anymore (no laughing at the Tweety on the flap!). Inside
I carry a spare pair of polypropylene underwear (tops and bottoms),
a pair of skivvies, a sweat shirt, sweat pants, a pair of wool
socks, two terrycloth towels, and a plastic garbage bag (for putting
the wet clothes in). I have only had to use this kit twice, and both
times it was a godsend! The first time was when we took an actual
dunking; our canoe flipped on our way out of the marsh, and by the
time we got back to the launch my friend and I were both shivering
uncontrollably. I changed into my dry cloths, while the best my
friend could do was wring out what he was wearing. Even with the
car's heater going full blast, he was shivering when we got back to
my house some 45 minutes to an hour later. The second time was after
a heavy downpour, and both my friend and I were soaked to the bone
by the time we got to the parking area. This time we both had our
dry bags and we were both comfortable, warm, and dry on the trip
home.
kitI carry a few other
odds and ends in my kit as well: a small pair of binoculars, a
pencil and pad of paper, a couple of granola bars, and a few strap
anchors for the couple that seem to disappear every year off my
decoys, a small pack of facial tissue (good for wiping your nose,
your backside, or for use as tinder for starting an emergency fire).
These are but a few of the many items I take with me. However, I
feel that those items I listed in the previous paragraphs are a good
basis for building a kit that can make your waterfowling forays more
safe and enjoyable in the years to come.
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